Do-it-Yourself Cleaning Tips.
No one can be ensured against spills, stains, or unpleasant odors ruining your carpeting or furniture.
When stains happen, we all get worried and upset because it costs quite a bit to have carpets or upholstered furniture professionally cleaned. The goal is to find the right method of cleaning to keep the stains or odors from ruining your investment.
Your “Emergency” Tools
It is a good idea to always keep on hand several things that will help you throughout your cleaning projects.
If you keep these items under your kitchen sink, all together, you can easily grab them and go to handle the carpet as soon as “emergency” occurs... Always remember when cleaning any type of stain from your carpet that time is the enemy. The longer a stain sits, the more permanent it will become and harder to take out.
- Clean, white terry wash cloths
- White paper towels
- An absorbent sponge
- Vinegar
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Mild dish detergent
- Isopropyl alcohol
- A dull knife
- Ammonia
What to Do When the Stain Happens
The way you react when something spills on the floor is what is going to make the most difference in the outcome of the stain removal. Here are some steps to follow for all stain removal from carpets.
- For most food stains, cover the area with table salt. This will prevent the stain from setting while you get your things together.
- Remove any type of debris from the stain. Do not leave it there or rub it in further.
- Use washcloth or white paper towels to blot up all of the liquid that is on the carpeting. Blotting is not rubbing, but applying a small amount of pressure to the area to cause the stain to absorb into the cloth.
- If this does not remove all of the carpet stain, then you will want to move on to the most appropriate form of cleaning which you will find below.
- After the stain is cleaned properly, place a thick stack of white paper towels on the wet area and apply something heavy such as a brick to the area and allow it to sit overnight. This will dry the carpet by further removing the stain.
Below you will find detailed information on carpet stain removal techniques for your specific type of stain.
Berry & Fruit Stain Removal
If you happened to spill berry or fruit juice on your rug. Do not panic. There are different ways you can save the carpet before the stain ruins it. You need to react fast and use appropriate cleaning technique.
Work quickly but do not speed up the process. You need to use a chemical reaction to get those stains out and that can take a little practice and patience. Here is your step by step guide on how to handle berry or other fruit stains.
Step One: Use a clean cloth to blot, not rub up the liquid and debris that is on the carpeting. Do not rub it because this will cause the stain to set even farther into your carpet, making it harder to get out. Blot until all of the liquid has been absorbed.
Step Two: Your cleaning solution should be made as follows. Mix one teaspoon of a pH balanced detergent with a cup of warm water. Do not use anything that has bleach in the product as this will cause additional staining. Use your sponge to blot this mixture onto the affected area. Do not rub.
Step Three: Use a standard white vinegar (most people have in their pantry). Blot this onto the stain as well. This will work as a rinsing agent to pull the stain out of the carpet and onto your cloth.
Step Four: Blot with a clean terry cloth to remove the liquid. If there is any remaining stain left in the carpet, rinse the stain with a warm water solution, again, blotting it out. Repeat this procedure a couple of times to get the set in stain, out.
Removing Milk Based Stains
Milk and other milk products need to be properly treated if you are to remove the entire residue from your clothing, carpeting or other surfaces effectively. Lucky for you, we have some tips to help you with this.
Steps for Cleaning Milk based Stains
- Make a cleaning solution. Mix a few drops of warm water with detergent for the laundry. Work it into the stain with your fingers or with a toothbrush. Wash it as necessary in your washing machine.
- Take care of the stains as soon as they make contact with the fabric. That means that you need to treat them before they dry.
- If you are unable to treat the stain right away, soak the fabric for five to ten minutes in cold water to stop the stain from setting.
- Treat the stain before laundering. This goes especially for stains that do not rinse off well or are greasy after the first detergent washing. Let the pre treatment product sit for five or so minutes before washing. Do not let it dry though.
- For stubborn milk stains, soak the piece of fabric in room temperature water for approx. 30 minutes.
- Always follow the fabric and or clothing’s specific care instructions when laundering them.
Old Milk Stains
Sometimes you do not know that the milk stain has gotten there until it has had the time to dry. Since a dry milk stain is a set stain, there is no guarantee that it will come out completely. But, there are several things that you can do nonetheless to make sure that you get the best possible result. Take some time with it. If the milk stain is crusty, you can use a dull knife to scrape some of it off. This flaking away is a good thing! Follow the above directions for pre treatment and rub detergent into the milk stain before you place in laundry. You can also soak a stubborn milk stain for 30 minutes as well.
General Tips for Milk Stain Removal
- Blot the stain when it happens. You do not want to rub the stain until you have gotten as much of the milk out as possible.
- Cold water is essential to stop it from setting. This works well for milk stains that happen away from home. Rinse with cold water as soon as possible.
- Bleach products can be used on milk stains that are on clothing that is bleaching safe.
- When you cannot wash the stain, make sure to sponge it as much as possible with cool water. You can then work small amounts of detergent into the stain, rinsing it as you go. You can also dilute alcohol with two parts of water and work into the stain.
Removing Coffee and Tea Stains
Like most out there, you probably have a cup of coffee each morning for breakfast. Or, perhaps you enjoy your tea.
How many times have you spilled that drink? You have no time to have it cleaned and you are supposed to be running out the door. It happens to all of us.
The good news is that you can successfully clean the coffee and the tea stains if you do so in the right way.
Commercial Stain Removers:
You can get a good cleaning from these products if you have them on hand when you need them. When using them, make sure to pre treat them right way. That is, you need to follow the directions of the products provided.
Saturate the item with the stain remover and allow it to sit for at least five minutes. Then, you can wash as you normally would.
Vinegar:
This is an effective treatment for coffee or tea stains as well. Simply mix one teaspoon of vinegar to one quart of cold water. Spray onto the stain and then blot it up. It will loosen and bring the stain out.
Baking Soda:
Take a terry cloth that is wet with warm water. Sprinkle a teaspoon of baking soda on to it and then rub into the fabric. Rinse off.
Do not use any bleach style stain removers on clothing that is colored or those that warn against it.
Finally, make sure that you are effective at removing the stain as soon as possible for the best result.
Blood Stains
- Make a paste of water and cornstarch, cornmeal or talcum powder and put on fresh spots. Let dry and brush off.
- Cover fresh or dried stains with meat tenderizer and add cool water. After 15 to 30 minutes, sponge off with cool water.
- Fresh blood on leather? Dab on a little hydrogen peroxide. After it bubbles, wipe it off.
- If you get blood on fabric, quickly wet a long piece of white cotton thread with saliva and place it across the spot. The thread will absorb the blood.
Candle Wax
- For spilled wax on carpets and upholstery, put a brown paper bag over the dried wax and run a hot iron over it. The bag will absorb the hot wax.
- Dried wax on wood floors can be removed by softening the wax with a hair dryer, then removing with paper towels. Wash spot down with a combination of vinegar and water.
Removing Water Stains
- If the fabric is non-washable, gently scratch off the stain (which is made up of mineral deposits) with your fingernail. Still there? Hold the spot over a steaming teakettle until well-dampened. As it dries, rub the stain, working from its outer edges toward the center.
- Remove hard-water stains from glasses and bottles by rubbing them with steel wool dipped in vinegar.
- Cover hard-water stains on bathroom fixtures with a paste of baking soda and vinegar. Then drape with a terry clot towel and let stand for about an hour. Wipe off, rinse and dry.
Removing Wine Stains and Spots
So, you had a dinner party and one of your guests spilled wine and stained your lovely beige carpet?
Wine Stain Prevention:
Commercial formulations like Scotch guard work well on carpets, the couch, chairs or the sofa. You may need to apply Scotch guard every six months or so to be effective. The wine or grape juice stain will be repelled like oil and water. This is an excellent way to protect your furnishings from wine stains.
This is an easier problem to deal with vs. red wine stains. The white wines do not leave any stains if wiped up promptly and immediately after a spill. To reduce further possibility of the stain showing on the carpet, use a solution of equal part of hydrogen peroxide and soap on the stain. If there is a high sugar content in the wine you`ll want to use a spot carpet cleaner to remove as much of the wine as possible to avoid attracting dirt to the spot. You will see the stain dissolving. Both the ingredients should be applied at the same time to be effective. If you are not able to find the ingredients at hand quickly, you can blot the excess wine and pour salt on the stain to prevent from setting and spreading.
Removing Urine Stains and Spots on Carpets
Pet Stains on Carpets:
Pet urine stains on carpet should be removed as early as possible. Any delay will cause the uric acid to crystallize on the rug and carpet. The effect will be permanent on the carpet. So take quick and immediate action. The following course of action is recommended
- Blot up the urine immediately. Keep the stained area wet with a damp cloth
- Use liquid shampoo for the rugs.
- Work from outside to center to avoid spreading the stain.
- Rinse with cloth dampened with water.
- Clean and wring the cloth as often as possible
- Repeat steps 2 to 5 until you see that the stain is gone.
- Dry the rug as early as possible.
- During the drying process if you find that the stain is not gone, repeat steps 2 to 5 until you see the result. Do not wait until the rug has dried completely.
Dried Urine Stains:
If the urine stain has dried repeated applications of detergent, white regular household vinegar, and household ammonia will have to be applied until the stain has been removed. The mixture of detergent may be made by mixing one teaspoon of a mild non-alkaline and non-bleaching detergent with 1 cup of warm water. The mixture of vinegar may be made by mixing one third cup of vinegar with two thirds cup of lukewarm water. The mixture of ammonia may be made by mixing one teaspoon of the ammonia with half cup of cold water.
Do not use hot water or heat steam-cleaning method on urine stains. This will have exactly the reverse effect. As soon as you apply heat in any type to urine stains, it has the effect of fixing the stain instead of removing the stain.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors from Carpets
- Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
- Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
- Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
- With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
- Leave on overnight.
- In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog and Puppy Urine
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
- Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
- Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
- You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that`s okay.
- The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
- Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
- Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
- Follow manufacturer`s recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow drying thoroughly before vacuuming.
You`ll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Mold Stain Removal:
Mold stains will continue to cause damage and discoloration unless molds are removed completely, and conditions helpful to growth are eliminated. Circulation of dry air to remove moisture and exposure to sunlight are effective solutions to remove mold. Mold stains will require different treatment in each case.
Oil and Grease Stain Removal for Carpets
Stains caused by food are a normal part of everyday life. Good news! there are many excellent oil stain removal tips that work exceptionally well and best of all, many times using products you already have around the home.
- For small oil stains, use a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a clean, white paper towel to blot at the stain. Make sure you never rub. Work the stain from the outer edge toward the center.
- For larger oil stains, we recommend you purchase a dry-cleaning solvent. Again, moisten a clean cloth or paper towel, blotting at the stain from the outside in. You may find that you have to repeat this process several times over the following days or even weeks. If the stain persists, then you should consult with a professional carpet cleaner.
Clean and remove stains from upholstery
New upholstered furniture can be very expensive. If you have a sofa, chair, loveseat, or some other type of upholstered furniture that is in good condition but just dirty, these upholstery cleaning tips will save you money and time shopping for new furniture.
The key with upholstered furniture is choosing the appropriate type of cleaning method.
Getting the Upholstery Stains Out
The most important thing to remember when cleaning upholstery is to consider the fabric. If you are unsure, you can check with the manufacturer’s information. Then, before you start cleaning a large stain, we recommend you work first on an inconspicuous area to ensure no discoloration or damage is done. With that done, the following are a few of the more common stains found on upholstery and methods for removing them.
Butter Stains
For butter, the best option is to choose a dry cleaning solvent, which can be found at grocery and retail stores. Apply a little onto a clean, white cloth and blot at the stain, never rub. Next, mix one tablespoon of a mild, ph-balanced detergent with one cup of warm water. Again, blot at the stain. Next, using another towel, sponge the solvent and detergent off with clean, warm water and allow the spot to dry.
Leather Stains
The first step to knowing how to treat the stain on your leather is knowing just what kind of leather it is. If it’s suede Nubuck, you should only use specialty cleaners labeled specifically for Nubuck leather. Anything else is likely to damage the texture of the leather. For polished leathers, there are usually more options available to you as the leather’s texture isn’t as much of a concern. But using the wrong kind of cleaner for your type of leather can make the initial stain look like child’s play, so please be careful! And since leather is such a temperamental material, it’s more important than ever to ensure that you test any cleaner on a non-visible area prior to using it to remove the stain.
The Best Defense is a Good Offense
One of the best defenses you have against stains on your leather is a good commercial leather cleaner followed up with a strong leather protector. Most leather manufacturers offer their own version, or you can find a more general option at your local shoe or discount store. Leather that is protected from the elements is much less likely to stain than the alternative.
Therein Lies the Rub
One of the keys to treating a leather stain is what cloth you use and how you rub on any treatment. The only fabric that should be used on leather for treatment is a lint-free soft cloth such as a micro fiber cloth. When it comes time to rub in the treatment, look at the leather carefully and see if you can find the lie of the leather. You should be able to see that the leather “runs” in a certain direction. If you’re able to find the lie, rub any cleaner in the direction of the lie. If you’re unable to find this, rub the cleaner from the outside of the stain towards the center. Never rub the cleaner in a circular fashion.
Paint Stain Removal
The first step to knowing how to treat the paint is knowing if it’s water-based or oil-based paint. The easiest way to find out about this is to read the label on the paint can. Look for the clean-up instructions. If it’s water-based, the directions for clean-up will include instructions for using soap and warm water. If it’s oil-based, the directions will tell you to turn to paint thinner or mineral spirits. This information is key to knowing how to remove those drops (or maybe even a big slosh) of paint.
Oil-Based Paint Stains– Paint Thinner & Mineral Spirits Warning
Oil-based paints are the most difficult to clean since they require paint thinner to clean once dry. These materials should NEVER be used on a hardwood or vinyl floor, as they will completely destroy the finish in the affected area. And using such solvents on carpets or rugs is quite questionable – check any care labels and/or manufacturer’s brochures ahead of time, and test in a very inconspicuous area.
If the spill is on hard flooring, start with a damp towel and wipe up as much of the paint as you can. You should be able to get just about everything up from hard flooring with damp paper towels. If some paint has seeped into joints in the flooring, use a toothpick to scrape it out of the joint.
For carpets and rugs, form a barrier around the paint spill with dry towels. Then douse the stain with clean water. Immediately soak up the water and paint with towels and then discard. You’ll likely have to use new towels for your barrier as well. Continue to douse and sop until the paint is gone. You may need to use a carpet cleaning product at the end to remove the final color remnants, but do not use one until your wet towels remain white after blotting the carpet.
Wood Floor Maintenance
Most wood floors can be kept clean by first sweeping or vacuuming with a floor nozzle to remove most of the surface dust and dirt, then damp mopping with clear water (dip a sponge in clear water, squeezing it out so that the mop is barely damp, almost dry). Use very little water and rinse your mop thoroughly after each use since excess water can dissolve protective coatings and alter the color of the wood and raise the grain to roughen the surface.
If your floors are not dirty enough to need mopping every week, then you should not do it, as it will wear the floors faster, not to mention waste your time. Simply sweeping is often all they need.
If need to restore the shine to your wood floor after you get it clean, try damp mopping it with 1/2 cup vinegar and 2 tablespoons furniture polish in a gallon of warm water. Vinegar is also useful for removing any soap residue or build-up, but should not be necessary every week.
Urine Stain and Odor Removal from Wood Floor
To remove pet urine stains and odors from wood floors, you can use a product such as PAWS Pet Accident Wash up Solution. Spray PAWS on the stain and let PAWS sit for a few minutes. Blot the area with a clean absorbent cloth to remove as much moisture as possible. Cover the area with baking soda and let the baking soda sit overnight to absorb any remaining moisture. In the morning, sweep up the baking soda. However, if the urine has deeply penetrated the wood, there will be no choice but to sand it down and refinish. This may be best left to a professional.
Tips on Cleaning Your Wood Floors
The very best things for any wood floor is to always vacuum and dust mop it regularly. This will prevent dirt from building up and scratching or damaging the floor.
We usually use a vinegar and water solution by mixing 1 cup of white vinegar to 1 gallon of warm water to make a mild wood floor cleaning solution.
- Dip a cotton cleaning cloth into your cleaning solution and squeeze out most of the liquid.
- Wipe the floor without getting it soaking wet.
- Work on one small area at a time.
- Immediately buff the area dry with another cloth or towel bring out the shine and luster. Do not allow your wood floors to get too wet and by wiping it dry you will not have any water spots.
If you have Swedish finished wood floors, the finish will come off with time and wear. Do not wax these floors, call a specialty company and have the floor surface refinished.
Waxing Hard Wood Floors
If your vacuum or dust mop does not restore the shine and luster to your wood floor with a wax finish, (not Swedish finish) try buffing the floor to restore the shine rather than applying more wax. Buffing should always be tried first as it will often restore a nice shine and luster without adding another layer of waxy build-up.
If buffing does not work, you will need to first apply a specific wood floor cleaner or hardwood floor cleaner and a liquid wax that is made specifically for wood floors. After the wax is applied, let it dry then buff it again.
How to Wax Swedish Finish Floors
If using a dust mop does not shine to your Swedish finished hard wood, try using a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. We typically use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water which leaves no residue and makes the floor shine brightly. If this does not work for you, likely the floor needs a new surface finish. You should not wax a surface finished floor, but you will need to contact a wood floor finisher and have the floor surface reapplied.
How to Clean Your Wood Floors
If you use an oil based cleaner on a polyurethane (Swedish) finished floor, it will leave an oily residue on the floor surface which will make cleaning the floor much more difficult, and will actually degrade the floor but cause problems when the floor with adhesion when the floor is buffed and recoated.
When cleaning your hardwood floor, only a minimal amount of water should be used. So mop and wipe only with a dampened, not but not dripping wet cloth or mop. Dry the floor using a mop or dry cotton towel to remove water and prevent water spotting.
The best way to clean any sort of wood floor finished with a urethane, is to use a polyurethane cleaner, which can be purchased, from a home improvement store.
Cleaning Tile Floors
Believe it or not, you can usually clean your tile floors with just a damp mop. I used to think that every time I lugged out the mop, I had to get out the cleaners, too. I started using clean water in my bucket to see what would happen. Amazingly, sometimes that’s all it took. If you mop fairly often, you can get away with plain water. When you need more thorough cleanings or sanitation, your solution depends on the type of flooring you have in your home.
Ceramic Tiles
Ceramic tiles are pretty easy to clean. You can usually just use general household cleaners diluted in water. I like to use a rubbing alcohol solution (1/4 cup rubbing alcohol in 2 gallons of water) to clean the floor and get it dry fast. To get the grout clean as you mop, carry a spray bottle with a solution a little stronger than what you’re using on the floor and spray where necessary.
Vinyl Flooring
Vinyl flooring is also easily cleaned with a household cleaner diluted in water. If you have heel marks or scuff marks that are difficult to get out with a mop, you can try the baby oil fix. Use a very little bit – 2 or 3 drops, let it sit for a while, and then mop. I’ve heard of people also using mineral oil or olive oil and getting similar results, but you should be really careful that you thoroughly clean the surface afterward. You’d rather have a scuff mark than a trip to the hospital should you slip and fall!
Stone Floors
Depending on what your stone is made of, you need to be very careful what you use to clean the floor. If you have marble or other fragile stone, the manufacturer probably recommends a special, pH balanced cleaner. You can find a comparable cleaner online, and you can also use a homemade solution of dishwashing soap (not too much or your floors will be sticky or slippery) mixed in water. If it’s not strong enough, you should try a special stone cleaner instead of resorting to harsh chemicals. Do not ever use vinegar or any other acidic cleaning solution on marble. It can leave marks like gouges in the surface and ruin the smooth appearance of the entire floor!
Linoleum Floors
Linoleum is probably the easiest to clean. As it’s the usually the most inexpensive flooring, it doesn’t last as long. The key to getting the most out of linoleum is to be gentler than you’re required to be. Stick to plain water when you can, and go easy on the harsh cleaners. Dilute the household cleaner more than you normally would to get more life out of your floor. For black marks or scuff marks, try a pencil eraser.
No matter what type of tile flooring you have, always go back over your floor with plain water when you use any chemical. This will make your floor last longer, and it will also protect children and pets from ingesting chemicals. |
